When comparing this immense archaeological site to other archaeological gems of Southeast Asia, the Angkor sites, an analogy with food is apt: savouring the Angkor sites is like a Chinese Lauriat banquet where the temples are presented in grand and exquisite servings and takes a long time (about 10 to 15 minutes) to get from one to the next. Bagan is served up Spanish tapas-style, in small bite size servings, often in frequent intervals and near to each other.
What makes the temples look romantic is the process of graceful ageing. There are no windbreaks and occasional whirlwinds spawn loose dust particles that sandblast the temples. This has eroded the stucco coatings of the temples to reveal the underlying bricks, reddish, and golden brown when bathed in sunlight.
Erosion is a significant threat to this area, not only the wind chipping away the buildings' parging, but also water from the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River threatens the riverbanks. Strong river currents have already washed away half of the area of Old Bagan. It used to be a rectangular-shaped piece of enclave protected by a perimeter wall. Now the remaining triangular eastern half is exposed to the river.
Bagan has three main cities relevant for tourist, New Bagan (southwest of the main sights), Nyaung U (northeast of the main sights) and Old Bagan (just northwest of the main sights).
Bagan became powerful in the mid-9th century under King Anawratha, who unified Burma under Theravada Buddhism. It is estimated that as many as 13,000 temples and stupas once stood on this 42km2 plain in central Myanmar, and Marco Polo once described Bagan as a "gilded city alive with tinkling bells and the swishing sounds of monks' robes". Approximately 2,200 remnants remain today, in various states of disrepair. Some are large and well maintained, such as the Ananda Pahto, others are small tumbledown relics in the middle of overgrown grass. All sites are considered sacred, so when visiting, be respectful. Remove footwear and socks before entering or stepping onto them.
Bagan's golden age ended in 1287 when the kingdom and its capital city was invaded and sacked by the Mongols. Its population was reduced to a village that remained among the ruins of the once larger city. In 1998, this village and its inhabitants were forcibly relocated a few kilometres to the south of Bagan, forming "New Bagan" where you will find accommodation in its handful of cheap, quaint, clean hotels, and religious centres.
Despite the majesty and importance of Bagan, UNESCO did not include it on its World Heritage Site, because it says some temples were rebuilt in an un-historic fashion. Nonetheless, the site is perhaps as impressive as the pyramids of Egypt: a dry, vast open landscape dominated entirely by votive architecture.
The following nine sights are a subjective but recommended selection of worthy and beautiful Bagan temples: Sein Nyet Sister Temples (very calm and uncrowded), Shwesandaw Pagoda (after sunrise when the crowds have dissipated), That Byin Nyu Temple (uncrowded and great view onto Ananda Temple), Ananda Temple (bypass Disney Land and enjoy the quiet courtyard), Sulamani Temple (very picturesque and great illumination by the sun), Thambula Temple (very bright, great for pictures), Dhamma Yangyi Temple, Pyathadar Temple (great for sunset).
- Ananda Temple (Left side on the southern stretch of the Bagan-Nyaung U Rd just before the road heads to Tharaba Gate of Old Bagan). Bagan's holiest temple, built by the third king, Kyan-Zit-Tha in 1091. Ananda comes from the Pali word "anantapannya", which means "boundless wisdom". The temple houses four Buddhas facing the cardinal directions, which represent the four Buddhas who have attained Nirvana. The fifth, Maitreya, is yet to appear. Has been under renovation to remove the white and black washed paint and to make way for a sandy reddish cover, which now allows for impressive and distinct views/pictures like no other temple in Bagan.
- Dhamma Yangyi Temple. Commissioned by King Narathu to atone for the sins of assassinating his father, brother, and wife. The eccentricity of this king is reflected in the building's finely set brickwork (he executed a bricklayer for his imperfect masonry) and its unfinished construction (work abandoned after he himself was assassinated). Believed to be a haunted temple by some inhabitants, but clearly not by the noisy hawkers who set up shop right in front of the Buddha and appear to live in the side passages.
- Manuhar Pagoda (The last major temple at the south end of Myinkaba Village along Bagan-Chauk Rd, marked by a free-standing column). Built by King Manuhar from the nearby kingdom of Thaton, once a prisoner of King Anawratha. Released, he sold his jewellery and built this temple.
- Htilominlo Temple (1.5 km northeast of Old Bagan). Meaning "Blessings of the Three Worlds" and very famous with tourists. Built in 1218 by King Nantaungmya. It is probably the last temple built in this area and using Myanmar style. Interestingly carved reliefs surround the doorways.
- Shwe Gugyi Temple (In front of Thatbyinnyu Temple). Commissioned by King Alaunsithu in 1131, one of the most intact temples, thus needing less imagination to appreciate.
- Shwe Zigon Temple (Heading S, right side on the northern stretch of Bagan-Nyaung U Rd after passing the bus station. A long covered walkway with souvenir stalls starts from the road to the compound). This gourd-stupaed golden pagoda is the prototype monument (including for the iconic Shwedagon Pagoda of Yangon) built in Myanmar-style in 1087.
- That Byin Nyu Temple (That Byin Nyu Guphayagyi), Anawrahta Road (Left side after entering the Tharaba Gate of Old Bagan, the second road). That Byin Nyu Temple was built in the mid-12th century during the reign of King Alaungsithu. Adjacent to Ananda Temple, it is the tallest structure in Bagan. “Thatbyinnyu” means “omniscience”, which the Buddha is said to have attained upon enlightenment.
- Shwesandaw Pagoda (South side of the southern Bagan-Nyaung U road, almost opposite Ananda). Tiered pagoda very popular for sunrise and sunset. In the evening it can be impossible to climb Shwesandaw due to the masses and a limited number of people allowed on top, so go there early, at least an hour before sunset.
- Gawdaw Palin Temple (In Old Bagan, just north of the Archeological Museum). A fusion of Burmese and Indian styles, this temple has a beautiful courtyard with a medium-sized stupa and interesting bell hangers.
